Restaurant of the Year: West
CATEGORY WINNERS:
West
2881 Granville St.
604-738-8938
Cioppino’s/Enoteca
1133 Hamilton St.
604-688-7466
Blue Water Cafe
1095 Hamilton St.
604-688-8078
Parkside
1906 Haro St.
604-683-6912
Fuel
1944 W. Fourth Ave.
604-288-7905
Perennial winner West (Gold) continues to delight our judges—“nodding to trends but never being dictated by them,” said one. The departure of chef David Hawksworth (and arrival of Warren Geraghty) barely raised an eyebrow: “Guided by the steady vision of Jack Evrensel, there’s little doubt that Vancouver’s favourite room will make the transition between accomplished chefs with ease.”
At Cioppino’s (Silver) visiting celebs and corporate power players come for Pino Posteraro’s rustic Italian dishes, like pappardelle with braised veal cheeks and porcini mushrooms.
At Blue Water Cafe (Bronze), Frank Pabst “uses a delicate touch to make sustainable seafood sing.” The judges love their gorgeous new private dining room for intimate gatherings.
Honourable Mentions to Parkside (Andrey Durbach’s jewel) and Fuel (see Best New Fine Dining).
Best New Fine Dining: Fuel
CATEGORY WINNERS:
Fuel
1944 W. Fourth Ave.
604-288-7905
Fuel (Gold) came out on top for “the most exciting, yet mature and reserved cooking to debut in Vancouver in a long time.” “There’s nothing like settling in at the bar for the kitchen party at Fuel, and watching chef Robert Belcham deftly guide soundly sourced ingredients into seasonal menus, all matched with inventive wines paired by the charming Tom Doughty.”
Despite initial problems with acoustics, the room at Chow (Silver) hit its stride; chef JC Poirier impresses with dishes like Sloping Hills organic pork with sunchoke purée, house-made gnocchi, and chestnut jus.
At So.Cial (Bronze) Sean Cousins recast a 1911 heritage space as a trio of interconnected eateries. Bevelled glass and pressed-tin ceiling provide a suitable backdrop for his flavour-intensive culinary style: think salmon with pork belly, or scallops teamed with pulled pork.
Honourable Mentions to Metro and Goldfish Pacific Kitchen.
Boneta (Gold) wins for young chef Jeremie Bastien’s whimsical menu (a dish of seared Qualicum Bay scallops with avocado quenelles, espelette, and citrus vinaigrette was a favourite) that captures the spontaneity of the room; the three handsome young owner/operators turn out spectacular cocktails and impressively selected wines—“and the level of service sets a new standard.”
At Pied-à-Terre (Silver) “rich slow braises and full-flavoured sauces reign supreme: duck à l’orange, coq au vin, entrecôte with brandy peppercorn reduction—all the French classics satisfy immensely.”
Cobre (Bronze) is “a playful pageantry of the Americas; dishes like West Coast ceviche bring a new shine to a dim-lit dining corner.”
Honourable Mentions: Bistrot Bistro for rustic boeuf bourguignon and Jules for killer steak frites.
