Also, thanks for your explanation a couple of months ago re the power window not moving up - yes it was the weather stripping too tight - after lubing them the window works very smoothtly
pm ur VIN, i will try to ask honda and see if that's commonly fail? do u have anything done to the cd player etc? could that be the connection? it's really rare things like that fail for honda...@_@
and i think i did answer a post regarding to windows, it's still better to replace the run channel (or else still too much fiction for the power window motor)...but lubricating will be a temp fix...
Hm...the noise is gone when I try it again after work, maybe it was cold this morning or debris got stuck in the blades...I was gonna drop the motor to see what's going on in there, maybe too much debris (hope it's not dead rat :S), or the motor is going soon...I don't think for this mileage that it's rare for it to start to go. My friend replaced his last year, older model year Civic but similar mileage. Yes, I replaced the cd deck last week but I had no problem afterward and it was simply sliding the thing out and plugging it back in, I don't see how that would cause the noise though.
shutterbug: blower motor is behind the glove box? noise has nth to do (at least not that i can think of) with the control panel (during cd player installation)....or the noise is behind the panel?
ravemother: when a window doesn't roll up, could be fuse / switch / motor or even the "regulator"....dealer parts might be a good idea but going back to the dealer is not necessary!
A cheap (free?) but not extremely accurate check of your battery's health is its open circuit voltage. With a cold engine (essentially, you just want to make sure your battery has not been recently charged by the alternator and giving it a false voltage reading), check your battery's voltage. If it only has around 12.25V, it is only maintaining roughly 50% of its full charge. At 12.05V, it is only retaining around 25% of its full charge, and I would be looking for a replacement battery. Anything less than 12V requires immediate attention.
To properly find out how much life is left in your battery, get a shop to do a battery load test for you. Most independent garage places are willing to do it for free when you take the car in for regular maintenance service, with the hope (and expectation?) that you'll get the replacement battery through them if your battery turns out to have a low charge.
I personally like Optima RedTop batteries a lot. They are an AGM battery, have very high CCA (cold cranking amps) ratings, are extremely durable, and have low self-discharge rates. Typical SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries tend to die anywhere between 3 to 6 years worth of use, but it is fairly common for Optima batteries to last a lot longer than that. From my research, the mean life seems to hover around 8 years, with some lasting for as many as 11+ years. The problem is, they are definitely not cheap though, and they don't come in too many BCI group sizes.
Interstate and Sears DieHard batteries tend to have pretty good reputations, but they are regular SLA batteries law.
The cool air coming out to de-dew really cold in Winter time. Is it possible temporary disable the a/c and how can I disconect the a/c of 2000 Toyota Sienna.
發表於 2008-10-8 17:23
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