Gem of an Italian inn warms up the off season season

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Gem of an Italian inn warms up the off season
Contrarian by nature, my husband and I wanted to experience Italy when everyone else was in Maui -- hence our choice of Tuscany for a Christmas holiday. Friends recommended "must" places, but all were closed for the season, and by luck or desperation, I ended up resorting to TripAdvisor. Reviews led me to an e-mail conversation with a traveller from Texas, who said we must try Agriturismo Guardastelle. His most persuasive comment: "we never go back to places we have visited. In this case, however, we decided to make an exception, and then two. We are now planning a third visit."

I was intrigued. The location was perfect: a short drive from Florence, an easy walk (one kilometre) from magical San Gimignano, and a choice base from which to explore the region. From there dozens of picturesque towns, and even better, superlative restaurants and winemakers, were less than an hour away. And the rooms looked tasteful and cosy. We wanted a quiet Christmas in the country, and this looked like a good bet.

Guardastelle's response to my inquiry was prompt and detailed. After some back and forth on whether we should stay in an apartment with a full kitchen, or one of the rooms in their inn, we settled for the room. It included full continental breakfast which sealed the deal.

We started from Florence where we rented a car with a blessed GPS. In our stress to get out of the city, we overlooked some of the settings and ended up meandering through small towns instead of taking the direct route. The two-hour ride (instead of 45 minutes) forced us to change our pace. By the time we arrived at Guardastelle, we were as relaxed as our host, Fausto, who instantly put us at ease.

The place was enchanting. The building complex, which houses the main inn, a few apartments, the winery, a restaurant, pool and many different outdoor spaces, is surrounded by perfectly manicured gardens, and of course, vineyards and olive trees. The view of San Gimignano with all its 11 towers is postcard-perfect. The attention to detail and impeccable taste of the interiors reflect the spirit of the hosts, Susanna and Fausto. They are everything you could hope for in young and contemporary Italy: respectful of the past, with an eye to the future. And they are ready to design unique experiences for each guest.

For us, it was a memorable Christmas. On the 24th they recommended we dine at Il Trovatore in San Gimignano, where we had the best Florentine-styled steak of the trip. Accompanied by a bottle of Chianti Classico Riserva from Antinori winery, it was carnivore heaven. After dinner we made our way up to the Duomo, and there, under century-old frescoes and in the company of the whole town, we attended midnight mass.

Susanna and Fausto generously invited us to join 35 members of their family for their traditional Christmas luncheon. We were welcomed with open arms. The lunch, put together by Susanna's mom, aunt and uncle, lasted hours. The dishes kept coming -- wild boar, mushrooms, rabbit, pasta, polenta, artichoke -- and the wine, whether Guardastelle's own or choice bottles from other vineyards, flowed. Thankfully, we had only a few metres to walk before falling into a most comfortable bed.

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A veiw of San Gimignano from Agriturismo Guardastelle.


As you arrive to Guardastelle, main building

Gaurdastell's living room -- common area.

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The next day we visited the Guardastelle winery, Sovestro in Poggio. Susanna and Fausto are masters at the art of Tuscan wine-tasting. Their tour includes a lesson on growing grapes, harvesting and winemaking while guest enjoy a variety of antipasti and crudities, all washed down with their prime white Vernaccia and red Chiantis. This summer they will also be able to offer pizza baked in a brick oven they have almost finished restoring.

We took the next few days to explore some of the old towns of Tuscany, following many of our hosts' recommendations. One in particular turned out to be a bonus. They suggested that on our way back to Florence we stop by the Badia di Passignano to buy some wine at the Antinori's La Bottega. What they didn't tell us was that there was also a Michelinstar restaurant there ( osteriadipassignano.com).What was supposed to be a quick stop turned out to be a long lunch with exquisite dishes like anchovy and orange-zested tagliolini with a puntarelle salad; suckling piglet with the traditional cabbage and apple sauce; mushrooms and artichokes as you have never tasted before, and, naturally, the perfect wine accompaniments.

Osteria di Passignano clearly showed the sophistication Tuscany is capable of, but our hearts were already won by much simpler fare. Yet, if Susanna and Fausto continue on their path, it won't surprise us to see Guardastelle become one of Italy's top choices.


If You Go

-More information on Guardastelle.com/eng. The inn will cater to special events and negotiate prices for wedding parties.

-Room rates per day range from around $140 to $200, depending on the season. Weekly rates for apartments are also available.

-Many restaurants and businesses close from mid-January to mid-February.

-San Gimignano is world UNESCO Heritage Site. You can only drive in the town if you have a resident's permit. You must park outside of the gates of the town.